Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

!: Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

Replacing a submersible well pump is not a complicated task and relatively simple if you understand the basics about a well system - like the placement of the pump, how the submersible pump operates and how it is installed in a well casing. An advanced do it yourselfer with knowledge of electrical wiring and some basic plumbing skills is probably capable of replacing a submersible irrigation pump. This is not a step by step installation guide but rather an overview for a general understanding to evaluate whether to do it yourself or hire a contractor. The savings on the cost of labor, if you do it yourself, will be about 50 - 60% of the total price of a contractor doing the job. The first factor in deciding whether to attempt doing it yourself is how deep the well is and do you have a large enough lay down area to layout the pipe in your yard once you start pulling it out of the casing. If your well is 50' to 150' deep, I would recommend doing it yourself if you are physically capable to continuously lift and pull about 40 to 70 pounds of weight and hold it in place for during the complete removal of pump to keep from dropping it back into the well. To do this you will need at least one other person to help you pull out the pump and guide the discharge pipe away from the well as you are lifting it out.

The well casing in made of steel, iron or PVC pipe usually 3"or 4" inside diameter and this acts as a sleeve in which the pump housing, discharge pipe and wiring go down to reach the water level within this pipe casing. Attached to the submersible pump is the discharge pipe, usually 1" to 1- ¼" flexible poly pipe and the electrical wiring which also runs into this casing to the depth of submersible pump in the well. The deeper the well, the heavier and more difficult it is to lift out. The weight of the pump assembly may require some rigging above the well casing to help lift and hold the pump assembly in place so it doesn't slip and drop back down into the well casing as you are pulling it out. Once you start pulling up of the pump you must continue the motion until it is fully out of the casing. If you are doing this manually attach a rope beforehand to the top end of well cap so the other person can easier hold on to it and tie it off to something - a tree or fence, in between lifts if you need to take a break and stop lifting.

If you decide to replace the well pump yourself, here are some tips to remember. Determine that the pump motor is bad by checking circuit breakers, switches and check that power is at the well head. If power is on at well head it is a good sign that the pump is broke. Turn off the power at the breaker panel, tag and lock it out for safety before you start exposing the well head. Clear the area around the well head, approx 6' to 8' diameter, of shrubs and plants so you have enough room to expose the pump outlet and electrical connections. Disconnect the discharge pipe and undo the wiring at the junction box near the top of the well. Loosen the bolts on top of the casing cover, this is a squeeze type of cover with a thick rubber ring that expands as tightened and contracts as loosened against the casing interior. Once loose, try to lift the cover, as you lift you will be getting an idea of how heavy the whole assembly is of which you have to lift out of the well.

Now you are ready to lift the pump. Rubber gloves, protective clothing or coveralls should be worn as the pump piping may have an iron and silt residue on the exterior and can be quite a messy job. Fasten a pull rope around the top of the well head for the other person to hold on and tie off if needed. Some wells may have a leader rope or cable already attached from original installation instead of relying on the discharge hose clamps and connection. The person who will do the actual pulling should stand directly above the well to lift the discharge piping straight out of the casing and the other person should stay with the top end of well cap and guide it to where you lay it down as you pull. Make sure that the person guiding the end has a good grip on the end before you release to get another grip. Continue until pump assembly is fully out of the casing and wash off the entire pump end so you read the specification tag of the pump.

Collect the information from the old pump - brand, model, HP, voltage, phase, 110/220, rpm, 2 or 3 wire configuration, continuous duty and the pumps outlet size and discharge pipe size. Most residential submersible pumps are either 2 wire or 3 wire configuration. The 2 wire type has 2 - 110v wires along with a case ground to pump housing. The 2 wire pump needs no controls. If it is a 3 wire pump you should replace the controls also.

Most submersible pump are two piece units bolted together to be one assembly and consists of the motor and the pump. You can just replace the motor or pump if you choose, but I would highly suggest that you replace the whole assembly. After you have identified what type and size pump you have you may want to decide to upgrade your system with a higher volume pump of keep the same configuration. For upgrading, you should contact a supplier or well contractor for recommendations to be compatible with your needs and piping sizes to which your pump feeds.

Installing the new pump assembly. Make an itemized list of new parts, controls, fittings or wiring as needed. If the existing wiring and flex pipe are in good condition there is no need to replace them. To install the new pump you will have to splice the electric wires together in a waterproof connection. Consult an electrician or well contractor to specify the power wire splice connector type and technique acceptable for well applications. Connect the pipe fittings and pipe clamps as directed in the manufacturer's instructions. Tape the power wires about every 2' for the entire length to the flex pipe for ease in reinstallation of pump into casing. Turn the power to the pump on momentarily to check if it is working before inserting assembly into well. Turn the power breaker off and prepare to insert the pump back into the well again using 2 people - one at the well opening lowering and feeding the pump down and the other person at the well head cover feeding the slack to you and to help hold back to prevent the pump from dropping quickly down the casing.

Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

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Post Date : Dec 08, 2011 03:21:02 | N/A

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APPLICATION:-- Dewatering Construction sites, mines-- subways, tunnels, civil engineering-- Utilities-- Decorative fountains, waterfalls, and fish ponds-- Residential, commercial wastewater discharge.SPECIFICATION:POWER: 1HP, 115V/60HZ, 9 Amp, Single phase, motor full loadSPEED: 3450RPM (nominal)DISCHARGE: 2" NPT SIDESOLIDS HANDLING: 1.5" MAXMAX FLOW: 5000 GPHMAX HEAD: 31 FTPERFORMANCE: 4500GPH @ 10FT HIGH; 3840GPH @ 15FT; 2700GPH @ 20FT; 1620GPH @ 25FT; 540GPH @ 30FTAMBIENT TEMP: 104F (40C) Continuous 140F(60C) intermittentPUMP CASING: 304 Stainless SteelMOTOR HOUSING: 304 Stainless SteelSEAL PLATE: 304 S.SIMPELLER: Semi-open, 304 S.SSHAFT: Corrosion resistance stainless steel Keyed at the endO-RING: BUNA-N, assures positive sealing against oil leakage.HARDWARE: 300 series stainless steel.MECHANICAL SEALS: 300 S.S. metal parts, BUNA-N elastomers. Silicon Carbide VS CeramicCABLE: Water proof 30 ft. Cord (Plug on 115V).ENTRY: Pressure grommet for sealing and strain relief.MOTOR: Squirrel Cage Induction, Single Phase, 2 Poles, Air filled, 115V/60Hz, 1Hp, Permanent Split Capacitor Type, Built-in Thermal Protector, with automatic reset.DIMENSION: 8.5"X6.5"X16"HShipping Weight: 30 lbsOPTIONAL: Piggy back ball float switch.

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APPLICATION:-- Dewatering Construction sites, mines-- subways, tunnels, civil engineering-- Utilities-- Decorative fountains, waterfalls, and fish ponds-- Residential, commercial wastewater discharge.SPECIFICATION:POWER: 2HP, 230V/60HZ, 8.6 Amp, Single phase, motor full loadSPEED: 3450RPM (nominal)DISCHARGE: 2.5" NPT SIDESOLIDS HANDLING: 2" MAXMAX FLOW: 8000 GPHMAX HEAD: 50 FTCAPACITIES: 7800GPH @ 10FT HIGH; 6900GPH @ 15FT; 6000GPH @ 20FT; 5100GPH @ 25FT; 4200GPH @ 30FT; 3300GPH @ 35FT, 2400GPH @ 40FTAMBIENT TEMP: 104F (40C) Continuous 140F(60C) intermittentPUMP CASING: 304 Stainless SteelMOTOR HOUSING: 304 Stainless SteelSEAL PLATE: 304 S.SIMPELLER: Semi-open, 304 S.SSHAFT: Corrosion resistance stainless steel Keyed at the endO-RING: BUNA-N, assures positive sealing against oil leakage.HARDWARE: 300 series stainless steel.MECHANICAL SEALS: 300 S.S. metal parts, BUNA-N elastomers. Silicon Carbide VS CeramicCABLE: Water proof 30 ft. Cord (Plug on 230V).ENTRY: Pressure grommet for sealing and strain relief.MOTOR: Squirrel Cage Induction, Single Phase, 2 Poles, Air filled, 230V/60Hz, 2Hp, Permanent Split Capacitor Type, Built-in Thermal Protector, with automatic reset.DIMENSION: 8.5"X6.5"X16"Shipping Weight: 43 lbs

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Septic Tank Pumping - You Can Repair Many Septic Tank Problems Yourself And Save A Ton Of Money

!: Septic Tank Pumping - You Can Repair Many Septic Tank Problems Yourself And Save A Ton Of Money

Septic tank problems often occur with systems that are onion- shaped. The liquids and solids in a septic tank are separated by a baffle that comes in the form of a ball-shaped figure, or an inner sleeve shaped skin that has hooks attached to it at the top of the inner side of the neck. However, the wear and tear in the passing years may tear off the baffle allowing it to sink in the tank. Also, the ball in the receptacle may be knocked loose and disentangle itself. Most septic system problems begin with these two scenarios because liquid and solid wastes combine as they go through the soak away and this may cause a blockage.

One way to address septic tank problems especially if the baffle collapsed is for a homeowner to set-up a filter for his tank. Filters like these can be placed by a homeowner inside an outlet pipe, so that the septic system can function more effectively not to mention that it can save one a significant amount of money. However, if problems are more acute, a homeowner has no other recourse but to replace his or her old septic tank. Another concern that is related to cesspit are open, loose, or worn-out manhole covers.

Problems that come in the form of these dangerous open manholes may cause any adult or child to unwittingly fall or suffocate to their death if they are left unchecked. Defective manholes should be replaced or repaired immediately as not to further aggravate any problems that the homeowner is already facing. Strangely, many people call for repairs on their waste systems because they smell. It seems odd, but septic tanks that are "healthy" do not emit any foul emanation. The main culprit is dead bacteria that ate the rotting sewage.

Other problems are also caused by the use of modern cleaning ingredients like laundry soaps, washing powders, bleaches, and disinfectants that kill bacteria. This is detrimental to any system because these bacteria essentially eat waste products. A quick solution to odor problems is for a homeowner to buy septic tank bacteria from some dealers and put them on the toilet bowl. This is often all that is needed to solve septic odor problems because the irritating smells go away once the bacteria settles in the septic tank for two to three days. Once settled, the smelly emanation will go away.

Other problems that can be resolved yourself are solids blocking the soakway. A T-bar can used to unblock the passage. This very basic baffle is made of clay, but for those who want to replace it with a current version. The replacements units are generally reproduced in plastic to save on cost. However, one has to be careful with these baffles because if they are not correctly installed, the solids will still enter the soakway unhampered causing more damage. A homeowner would perhaps consider buying septic tank filler for him to solve his septic tank problems himself and save on the installation costs. On the other hand, this type of job is often better handled by a professional who isn't afraid to get his hands dirty.

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• 1/2-horsepower submersible utility water pump can handle material up to 1/2-inch thick without clogging
• Removes water within 1/8-inch of surface
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Using Well Pumps - Mechanized and Hand Water Pumps

!: Using Well Pumps - Mechanized and Hand Water Pumps

Finding your own water is one core component of self-sufficient living. Aside from growing your own vegetables, having your own water source lessens your dependence on standard water systems. A necessary part of having your own water is a pump. These are often a mechanized pump that regularly brings water up from the ground and includes jet and submersible models for shallow and deep wells.

A shallow well typically uses a jet pump that is mounted by itself above the ground. This model draws up water through a suction motion, much like a straw when used by a person. These pumps, however, can only be used at a depth of 25 feet. Equipped with an electric motor, jet water pumps should be filled already through a one-way check valve to start working.

Deep wells can also make use of a jet pump. Two pipes are needed, however, with one being a 35-foot long tail pipe. These two work together with suction and pressure to bring the water to the surface. But, this method isn't entirely efficient for deep wells and, instead, a submersible pump often provides better results. A submersible model is placed underground and consists of a cylindrical well casing, of which the bottom half is a sealed pump motor connected to an above ground power source. Submersible water pumps bring water to the surface easily and will last the user 20 to 25 years.

While well pumps run automatically with an electric motor, what do you do when the power goes out? Having a hand water pump on hand is advised. Hand water pumps attach to a well pump and will provide water without electricity. A person can use a hand pump and expect the water to come out at three to five gallons per minute, from a depth of 300 feet. Because power can go out on occasion, having a hand pump around to supplement your mechanized well pump is advised.

Using Well Pumps - Mechanized and Hand Water Pumps

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Reefe RVS155 Submersible Vortex pump

!: Reefe RVS155 Submersible Vortex pump

www.pumpsandwatercontrol.com.au This Reefe Submersible Vortex pump has been specifically designed for Sump Pump out applications. Solid cast-iron and stainless steel construction for robust and reliable pumps on which you can depend. Capable of handling solids up to 15mm. Applications • Dirty Water Transfer • Grey Water • Household Waste Water • Sump draining • Pool emptying Features & Benefits • Solids Handling 15mm • High Performance • Thermal Overload Protection • Low Power Consumption - 180 watts • 10m power cable • Includes multi- stage hosetail Construction • Stainless Steel motor housing and shaft • Technopolymer Vortex Impeller • Dual mechanical seal in oil chamber • MAC 3 type float switch, depth adjustable • Motor insulation Class B • Cast Iron base and outlet

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!: discounted 9000gph 1hp Sewage Effluent Submersible Sump Water Pump clearance sale

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Post Date : Oct 19, 2011 05:42:06 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

9000gph 1hp Sewage Effluent Submersible Sump Water Pump

• VORTEX IMPELLER, NON CLOGGING
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Guide to Using Sump Pumps

!: Guide to Using Sump Pumps

One of the significant problems that many households face after rainy seasons is the accumulation of water in the basement, not just stopping the inhabitants from entering the basement but also resulting in a pretty stinking smell. The solution comes in the form of a sump pit, a hole in the basement floor where the water can go down and stand. It is ideal to have the basement floor made in such a way that the slope is towards the sump pit, so that the water would go in there by itself.

If you let the water stand in the sump pit for long durations, it can grow algae and collect debris too, and may also promote some other unhygienic problems. A pump is most often useful when draining water out of the sump pit. While rainwater standing in the basement is the major problem that a sump pump solves, it is also helpful if water accumulates in the sump pit because of any other reason like a higher water table in the surroundings.

The pump sucks water and throws it away at the other end of the pipe. While dry wells or municipal storm drains are more ideal for dumping this dirty water, some old houses may have their pumps throwing water into the sewerage lines, which is usually prohibited by law as this can negatively affect the sewerage system. Now let's see how sump pumps work and what types are available.

Normal homes keep their pumps on automatic by connecting them with the main electrical supply. This is something you should do due to the possibility of water spilling out of the pit and flooding the basement. For this very reason, a backup power supply is arranged using batteries so that the pump will keep working even in Cases of electricity failure.

Sump pumps are available in two types: submersible and pedestal. Submersible sump pumps are shorter in height (around 12 inches) and are mounted into the bottom of the sump pits. Some of these pumps come with a floating electrical switch that is enclosed in plastic and floats above the water. When water enters the pit and the water level rises, the electric switch also goes up and automatically turns on when it comes to a specific height. In submersible pump systems, water is evacuated from the bottom; some of the sump pumps come with a top that covers them such that trash won't be able to get into and ruin the pump.

Pedestal sump pumps, on the other hand, are fitted on a pedestal and are usually 30 inches high. A pipe goes all the way to the bottom of the sump pit and is connected to a motor placed above the pit. The same type of floating electric switch is used to turn on the pump; however, these get switched on before water comes closer to the motors as the motors are non waterproof and may get harmed if they come into contact with water.

Guide to Using Sump Pumps

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1/2 HP Dirty Water Submersible Water Pump

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Post Date : Apr 11, 2011 06:44:41 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

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1/2 HP Dirty Water Submersible Pump, 1/2 HP Motor, Dirty Water Operation,400 Watt, Max Pump Rate: 1980 G/H, Diameter of Pipe: 1-1/4", Maximim Particle Size: 1-3/16"

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Sump Pit Installation - Don't Let it Get You Down in the Dumps

!: Sump Pit Installation - Don't Let it Get You Down in the Dumps

Sump pump installation can seem like a hard and dirty job. But knowing how to create a good sump pit makes a difference in the overall operation of the sump pump over time. The first consideration any homeowner should make is where does the pump need to be installed? Is the pump for use in a basement, crawl space, cellar, or perhaps a roof. Installation will vary depending on the type of pump and the use it's intended for. For the sake of pit installation any references will be for a submersible pump.

The type of soil surrounding a home needs to be taken into account. Some areas of the country like the Western Hemisphere have a lot of clay in the soil. This can cause the ground to expand and may cause foundational issues. The area the pit is put in needs to be where the best soil with a sandy consistency.  This will allow water to drain much easier. Be sure to place the pit in a location that will be very accessible for future repairs and replacement.

If the pit is to be placed in a basement that has already been built, pick the lowest spot in the basement and place the pit there. Especially if there is a certain spot in the basement where water tends to pool together. If putting the pit in a basement where concrete exists a jackhammer will be needed. It's best to cut the concrete into small pieces to make it easier to haul out later.

Most pits should optimally be 1 1/2 feet in circumference and 2 feet deep. Be sure to place all downspouts in the opposite direction of the foundation to protect it. Be certain to place all drainage from the pit in such a way that it will not drain into the sewer or a septic system. It is against the law to allow pumping from the pit into any sewer system. This can cause a sewer backup.

Sump Pit Installation - Don't Let it Get You Down in the Dumps

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For installation in small lift stations, drainage system or raw water applicationModel: 80WQ0.55-4PAPPLICATIONS:Home Garden and farmsMobile home parks and motelsSchool and hospitalMunicipal package systemsIndustrial treatment systemsDewatering applicationPERFORMANCE:Power: 3/4HP, 115V/60Hz, 11AMP, Single Phase, 4 poleGPM@FT: 250@5ft, 210@10ft, 140@15ft, 60@20ft shutoff@23ftSPECIFICATION:Speed: 1750RPM (nominal)Solids Handling: 2"MaxCapacities: up to 266 GPM,Total heads: up to 23 ft.Discharge: 3" NPT, VerticalAmbient Temp: 104F (40C) Continuous 140F (60C) IntermittentVOLUTE: Cast Iron, ASTM A-48 Class 30.MOTOR HOUSING: Cast Iron, ASTM A-48 Class 30.SEAL PLATE: Cast Iron ASTM A-48 Class 30.IMPELLER: 2-vane open, non-clog, Cast Iron, ASTM A-48 Class 30. Balanced for smooth operation.SHAFT: Corrosion resistance stainless steel.O-RING: BUNA-N, assures positive sealing against oil leakage.HARDWARE: 300 series stainless steel.DUAL MECHANICAL SEALS: 300 S.S. metal parts, BUNA-N elastomers.UPPER SEAL: Carbon (rotary) VS Ceramic (stationary)LOWER SEAL: Silicon Carbide VS Silicon Carbide.INSULATION: Class BCABLE: Water proof 33 ft. Cord (Plug on 115V).ENTRY: Pressure grommet for sealing and strain relief.MOTOR: Squirrel Cage Induction, Single Phase, 4 Poles, Oil filled, 115V/60Hz, 3/4Hp, Permanent Split Capacitor Type, Built-in Thermal Protector, with automatic reset.Size: 14" X 12" X 20.5"OPTIONAL: Piggy back ball float switch.

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